Below you'll find HowTo's and Tips on how to repair,
improve and upgrade your Mutt. If you're looking for companies
that manufacture parts or don't know where to find specific items,
check out the Mutineer Replacement Parts
page.
How To: Find
out What Year Your Mutt was Manufactured. http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.html
More coming soon...
If you are having trouble setting up or rigging
your boat, the best place to start is to view the Mutineer
15 Owner's Manual. Most everything is explained with detailed
illustrations.
Below, you will find additional information that
many owners have found helpful in setting up or rigging their
Mutt.
How to:
Rig your Mainsheet
When rigging the mainsheet for the
first time (or even the fourth or fifth time!), it can be a
little confusing. This graphic should help.
How To:
Step the mast with Tube-on-Tube Furling System (Original)
If your boat has the pvc/aluminum
conduit jib furling system, then this might be helpful.
The jib sail is clamped in place
to the PVC tubing with (of all things) hose clamps. Then, the
jib is furled around the pvc tubing. The PVC tubing is then
slid over the aluminum conduit which is in turn slid onto the
forestay. The forestay is attached near the top of the mast
at one end. Here too the aluminum tubing/conduit should be attached
with the same clevis pin to the mast tang. This keeps the aluminum
tubing from dropping down into the hole in the deck and getting
chewed up in the pulley below deck.
The forestay runs from the mast tang
above to the bow, through a hole in the deck, to a block/pulley
below decks at the bow, then back to the hyfield lever at the
cuddy opening. REFER TO DRAWINGS BELOW.
The hard part is, getting the forestay through the pulley below
deck and back to the cockpit. You certainly don't want to have
to crawl up there. It's no fun.
Most people use a thin feeder line/string.
Simply tie one end to the end of the forestay and tie the other
end to the hyfield lever. The idea is, when you drop the mast
and pull the forestay back out (through the pulley and back
out the hole in the deck), it trails the feeder line with it.
Once the feeder line is through the hole in the deck at the
bow, I untie it and secure it to the pad eye or anything on
the bow. Now you have a line fed from the hyfield lever through
the pulley and through the hole in the deck. Then, next time
when you are stepping the mast, you simply retie the feeder
line to the end of the forestay, and gently (don't want it to
come untied midway) pull the forestay back through the pulley
and connect to the hyfield lever.
How To:
Engage your Hyfield Lever
When you get the forestay back to the lever, decide which hole
in the lever you want to pin it to. This allows you to crudely
adjust the tension of the forestay.
Then, clevis pin the forestay in
the hyfield lever slot at the hole you select. It should fit
between the 2 metal pieces of the lever.
Next, pull the lever toward the cockpit and up. Once it's in
the horizontal position, Use the U-pin (see graphic) that hangs
from the underside of the deck and holds the hyfield lever in
the "locked" position.
Warning!
Always have someone supporting the mast while you're fiddling
around below deck! If the lever slips out of your hands, or
while your cursing at your bleeding thumbnails while wedging
open the clevis pins, the mast will drop like a redwood and
probably pull out most of the deck with it.
When setting it up the boat solo,
pin the base of the mast into the mast step, walk the mast up,
and secure it with a line running from the mast support on your
trailer. This holds the mast upright while you monkey with the
hyfield lever below deck.
